5 Point Foolproof Checklist for Mastering Orchid Care

Posted on May 10, 2012 by Aidan
Orchids have been known for ages as one of the more difficult plants to care for. The truth is, this isn’t the case as long as you have the proper tools and knowledge at hand when growing them.
So if you’re thinking about growing orchids, be sure to follow this checklist carefully to  ensure that you can have picture perfect plants in both appearance and health:
Know its type and how to properly care for it.
According to the most recent count, there are currently over 35,000 species of orchids in the world. This means that no particular set of instructions would fit every single one of them.
Remember that each type may have different needs from each other. A good tip is to find out where they grow in the wild and provide the same environment for them at your home.
Repotting is essential.
Orchids are all about the roots. They have one of the most fast growing root systems in the plant kingdom. When you think that their current pot cannot sustain the roots anymore, then it is time to repot them.  Failure to do this will result in stagnant growth and can even cause rotting and death. Remember that orchids need a lot of air circulation in their roots to breathe so periodically transfer them to larger pots when you can.
Practice division.
If you do not know what division is, then here’s a crash course. You call dividing a large plant into two smaller-sized
plants “division”.
This will provide the plant a greater chance of  being healthy and producing an impressive array of blooms. Some orchids grow very large and produce more blossoms. Remember that flowering takes a lot of energy from the plant, and division will also divide the energy it takes for the plant to bloom. This will produce smaller plants, but they will be healthier.
Location, location, location.
Another important thing to remember when thinking of “essential orchid care instructions” is the location where
you put your orchid. Because orchids have drastically different requirements from each other, moving them from one location to another, even temporarily, can be detrimental to their health.
Be considerate enough that when you see it thrive in a place of humidity, do not move it somewhere else where it can dry out. Another thing to remember is that most orchids actually prefer shaded light and grow best outside (under a shaded tree for example). So you should definitely find a place where that requirement is met.
Rotate your orchids.
This tip is essential for growers who love seeing orchids bloom. You should have orchids that are in both “NBS” (Near Blooming Size) and “BS” (Blooming Size) cycles at the same time. This will ensure that you as a grower will  always be engaged in all parts of the orchid life cycle.
This will also ensure that you have blooming flowers  all year long.
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Orchids buds falling off (How to Save them)

Posted on May 8, 2012 by Aidan
Hi and welcome to another post jam packed with orchid care tips.
I know it’s been a while since my last post to you, I hope you are keeping well.
In this time I have been busy raising my beautiful daughter Aviana and recently my wife and I welcomed the arrival of our second child Jackson. To say we are both blessed and very busy would be stating the obvious.
In the meantime, I have received lots of questions on how best to care for orchids.
One of the most common is:
‘My orchid flower buds shrivel and fall off my orchids before they open?  Why?’
Healthy orchid plants that have buds fall off the stem before they have a chance to open are suffering from “bud blast”.
This can be caused due to rapid changes inenvironment and even air pollutants such as smoke, paint thinner or aerosol sprays and ethylene gas that is released from ripening fruit.
Are you moving your orchid around the house daily?  Is there a cold or hot draft that might be affecting it?
Or is it sitting on the kitchen table near your fruit bowl?
Orchids are sensitive to any sudden changes in their environment – and they’re particularly sensitive to rapid changes in
temperature.
One of the most common reasons why a newly purchased orchid will suddenly lose its flowers is because the plant goes through ”shock” when it is suddenly introduced to a new environment – namely your home.
You can prevent bud blast and flower blast by closely monitoring your orchids temperature changes. Protect orchids from
sudden cool and heat temperatures changes like strong air conditioning/heating or drafts from windows/doors.
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What Temperature For Your Orchids?

Posted on May 30, 2011 by Aidan

It is a misconception that orchids require high temperatures to grow, however a comfortably warm house should be perfectly adequate.

As orchids are native to all continents, they can grow under a wide range of temperatures; however extremes of hot and cold will likely kill any orchid.

To produce beautiful, long-lasting blooms, orchids must produce energy in the form of carbohydrates during the day when the temperature is high and store that energy at night when the temperature drops. This temperature fluctuation is necessary for orchids to bloom.

If the orchid plant does not store food at night it will not have a sufficient supply to initiate flowering and regulate growth.

So, if you are planning on growing orchids indoors you will have to overcome this obstacle.

Without a day-night fluctuation of 10-15 degrees Fahrenheit, the plants will grow plenty of healthy foliage but may stubbornly refuse to flower. If your orchid is having difficulty blooming, it could be because this fluctuation does not exist.

In addition there should be a difference of about 20 degrees in temperature between day time high temperatures of winter and summer. The orchid plant needs this temperature variance to determine what season it is.

In the world of the orchid, temperature, light and humidity work in conjunction with one another, and unless a harmonious relationship is achieved between them, optimum growth is not possible.

In instances of low humidity, high temperatures can be dangerous; in the case of too much
atmospheric moisture, the effects of low temperatures can be over-emphasized.

A widely held misconception is that all tropical orchids need extremely high temperatures to survive. This is not altogether true, and to subject them to such treatment can be disastrous.

In the very early days of orchid cultivation, many failures were due to growing orchids in the excessive temperatures of a “stove” house.

Research and observation over the years have provided three ‘temperature groups’ that orchids can fall into. They are High, Intermediate and Cool.

The largest of the three orchid temperature groups is the cool temperature orchids. Cymbidiums and ondontoglossums are two the largest orchid types in this temperature group. Optimally the nighttime low temperature for winter or summer should not drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius). The winter time high temperature should average about 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius) and the summer time high temperature should not exceed 88 degrees Fahrenheit (31 degrees Celsius).

Intermediate temperature orchids include orchid types of cattleyas and paphiopedilums. Their minimum temperatures in both winter and summer should not be below 55 degrees Fahrenheit (13 degrees Celsius).Day time temperature for winter should average about 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius and for summer time should not exceed 88 degrees Fahrenheit (31 degrees Celsius).

Warm temperature orchids include the most popular orchid type the phalaenopsis orchid. There is quite a difference in minimum temperature required between the intermediate and warm orchids.

The minimum nighttime temperature in both winter and summer is 64 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius). The day time temperature for winter should average about 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius) and for summer not exceed 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 degrees Celsius).

If the temperature is consistently below what is stated problems with mold and root rot can occur. On the other hand if the temperature is consistently higher than the temperature needed the orchid plant will become stressed and slow or stop growth.

Orchids do not like to be cold and wet or hot and dry. Either will deter growth and flowering.

Also one last thing all the information above should be taken as a guide only.

Orchids will live and in some instances thrive outside of the temperatures indicated above. There are a huge variety of factors impacting on the health of your orchids and temperature is just one part of that.

I personally know people who have orchids in very cold climates and get them to bloom regularly. So don’t be discouraged, just use this information as a guide.

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How to Water Orchids?

Posted on January 31, 2011 by Aidan

The number one killer of orchids is improper watering.

As the factors that impact your watering schedule (type of orchid, temperature, light, potting medium and humidity), vary so much from place to place, day to day, month to month, it is almost impossible to give a rule for watering.

However, it is always better to water early in the day so that your orchids dry out by night time.

The proper frequency of watering will depend on the climatic conditions where you live. In general, water once a week during the winter and twice a week when the weather turns warm and dry.

The size of your orchid container also helps determine how often you need to water, regardless of climate conditions. Typically, a 6-inch (15cm) pot needs water every 7 days and a 4-inch (10cm) pot needs water every 5 to 6 days.

The type of potting medium being used can also affect your plant’s water requirements.

Bark has a tendency to dry out more rapidly than sphagnum moss, for instance. It is important to remember, however, that even when the surface of your pot is dry, the root area may remain moist.

Poke your finger or a regular wooden pencil an inch into the pot; if it feels moist to the touch or if the pencil looks moist, do not add additional water. The potting medium should always be damp, but not soggy–neither should it be allowed to get extremely dry.

Over time you will get to know your plants needs, however to begin with, do not water your orchid until the top 0.5 inch/1.2cm of medium is dry to the touch

As we know orchids use more water in warm weather through evaporation and transpiration and less water during the colder months, and it is therefore fair that you should water more often during warmer weather and less frequently during colder weather.

When watering, use plenty of water and pour the water over the medium in the pot until the water flows freely out the bottom.

The quality of water used, whether for spraying or watering, is of great importance.

Since tap water has often been chemically treated, generally with chlorine, it should be used with caution.

The best water for orchids is undoubtedly rainwater. Rainwater, as it passes through the air, dissolves and absorbs many substances such as dust, pollen and other organic matter.

This enriched rainwater contributes to the nourishment of the plant. You should use a fairly ph neutral, lime free water and ensure water is never too hot or too cold.

Roots must never be allowed to rest in water, place your plant on an open or slat shelving so that water does not collect around the roots.

Orchid’s need plenty of water during their growth period so do not let them dry out too much, if they become too dry you can leave them to stand for up to 30 minutes in a bucket of water.

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Orchid Ventilation

Posted on January 28, 2011 by Aidan

Put simply, Orchids do not like stagnant air, they like good air movement around them.

Moderate air or wind blowing around your orchids cannot harm them, but a still and airless environment without air movement can.

In the wild, gentle continual breezes along the leafy canopy of the rain forest are vital for the survival of orchids and other air plants. Air movement acts as preventive medicine for orchids.

It helps evaporate stagnant water, trapped during watering, where fungi and bacteria breed.

Without ventilation or fresh circulating air, orchids eventually die from rot, lack of a continual carbon dioxide source, or infection. Ventilation also helps orchids tolerate intense light without getting burnt leaves.

You can easily improve air movement in your home so orchids grow happily.

During the summer, when temperatures are high, open windows to allow fresh air to come inside.

And when wintertime comes, you can use an ordinary oscillating fan to mimic the gentle breezes in the leafy canopy of a tropical forest. It is important to occasionally change the direction of the airflow so the area does not dry out.

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What’s the Right Humidity for Your Orchid?

Posted on January 28, 2011 by Aidan

Humidity is probably the number one factor that deters people from growing orchids, but don’t let it scare you.

If you live in a tropical climate or by the sea, you will likely not have to do anything by way of producing humidity.

If however the climate you live in requires some kind of humidity, this can easily be achieved by filling a tray with gravel or clay pellets, adding water, placing a grid on top and then placing the pots on this.

Spraying and misting the foliage also helps to create humidity as well as cooling the plant in hot weather.

If you mist the foliage, it is best to do it in the morning to allow the water to evaporate during the day. Be aware that too much water left on the leaves in cold weather can cause spotting and may rot new growths.

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Choosing The Right Potting Media For Your Orchid

Posted on January 25, 2011 by Aidan

When choosing a potting mix, keep in mind whether your orchid is epiphytic (they grow on branches and trunks of trees) or terrestrial (those that grow in the soil in the wild) as this will have an impact on what media to use.

Other things to keep in mind are:

  • The draining ability of the media; water should be able to flow freely with enough retained for storing and distributing the necessary amount of humidity, without becoming waterlogged,
  • Air must be able to circulate around the roots,
  • The media should withstand decomposition as long as possible,
  • And must be able to support the plant.

Many of the orchids we commonly grow are epiphytic in the wild. High up on the trees in the rainforest, they cling to branches without much around their roots.

Rain washes down the branches over the orchid roots and continues to drain away. So it is logical to use open, free-draining compost.

The type of compost that most resembles these natural growing conditions is one made up of bark chippings. Epiphytic orchids can be grown in a wide range of media, and you will find most combinations of barks, tree-fern fibre, perlite, sphagnum moss, peat moss, cork bark popular.

Terrestrial orchids should be grown in a medium that contains 40% organic matter, holds water, yet is well drained, contains some nutrients, and most importantly be able to support the plant.

Inorganic potting mixes are commonly used; this requires more attention and structure to the feeding and watering as all nutrients have to be given via the water.

Some popular potting media include:

Peat moss or a peat substitution will help to prevent drying out, which is good for those orchids that like a bit of moistness, such as terrestrial Paphiopedilum and Pleione.

Peat moss is made up of decomposed and fermented sphagnum moss which retains moisture easily and combines well. The down side is it makes the compost too heavy and restricts circulation. It can accumulate and retain salts, which may cause excess salinity damage.

Sphagnum moss is a live moss that grows in wet places. It holds water well but the downside is it goes off relatively quickly, especially after contact with fertilizers.

Chunks of coconut fibre are similar to bark in that it holds some moisture whilst draining freely.

Coconut husks; the covering outside of the coconut shell, is seen as a replacement for bark. Husks are relatively cheap and easy to find. It is generally more consistent in shape then bark, so it promotes better air flow throughout the roots.

The husks are also longer lasting then bark, and hold a lot more water. Though, with a fairly high salt content, it is a good idea to soak and rinse this media a few times before use.

Tree fern is long lasting, well aerated, and highly resistant to decomposition. While it permits good aeration of roots, tree fern possess great supportive qualities. It can be used in shredded form as part of a mix or as a whole to grow epiphytic plants on.

Ground bark can be used alone or in mixes, with fir bark being the most popular.

Charcoal is an excellent choice, provided is has not been treated for use in barbecues. Keep in mind that it does not hold much water.

Perlite is expanded volcanic glass. It is lightweight and promotes good aeration and drainage. It is common to add perlite into a peat and bark mix to help with drainage.

Having said all that, you will find that a 50/50 mix of peat and perlite works well for most orchids.

I Hope You Enjoyed today’s Orchid Tips!

Aidan Johnson

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How To Fertilize Your Orchids

Posted on January 24, 2011 by Aidan

It goes without saying that fertilizing is important as the fertilizer you give your orchids is the only nutrients your orchids receive.

A rule of thumb for fertilizing is if the plant is growing then it needs feeding. If it is not growing then it does not.

This means that during the spring and summer months when your orchid is growing and in flower it needs more food then during autumn and winter months when it is ‘resting’.

The potting medium you use determines the NPK (Nitrogen/Phosphorus/Potash) ratio that is needed in your fertilizer. However a high nitrogen feed should be used during the growing season to boost their growth, using a low nitrogen feed during the resting period.

It is important to follow the instructions on the container of the fertilizer you buy as each mix and brand is different. However as orchids are light feeders in their native environment they do not like strong feed, so in most cases you will need to dilute the fertilizer or mix it at half the recommended strength.

Two ways to fertilize your orchids are:

1. When you are watering your orchid, mix the fertilizer in the water before pouring it through the potting medium.

2. Alternatively you can ‘Foliar’ feed your orchid, by lightly misting the plant with a very weak mix of fertilizer and water.

I hope you found today’s post helpful!

Aidan

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7 Part Orchid Care Course

Posted on January 22, 2011 by Aidan

Here’s a really informative, Orchid Care blog post for you.

Every orchid enthusiast wants their flowers to be perfect. While we all know that perfection doesn’t exist, that doesn’t stop any of us from trying!

We all want lush green leaves, beautiful and perfectly shaped flowers and the healthiest plant possible.

We want to delight our family and impress our friends. But to do so, we may need a little help and guidance to see us through some of the more challenging orchid growing crises.

In response to the most frequently asked questions by orchid growers about how to house, feed and grow stunning orchids,

I have put together tip sheets on the 7 most important area of orchid care including:

1.    Fertilizer
2.    Potting Media
3.    Humidity
4.    Ventilation
5.    Watering
6.    Temperature
7.    Light

Over the next week I will provide you with details on each of the seven areas and how you can expertly care for your orchids to make sure they come back to life, are healthy and bloom longer.

Keep an eye out on this webpage  for this revealing information.

Enjoy!
Aidan Johnson

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Cattleyas and relates species

Posted on June 27, 2010 by Aidan

Care and Growing Tips

Cattleyas are warmth-loving orchid plants native to jungles and rainforests of Central and South America, with a few relatives occurring in the southeast United States.

Cattleyas must be kept warm – by which we mean comfortable indoor temperatures, 55 to 60 degrees F. minimum at night, with a temperature increase during the day of about 10 to 15 degrees.

They readily tolerate higher temperatures, but should be protected from temperatures over 100 F Cattleyas and many of their relatives are the orchids that DO like to dry out between waterings.

They can be watered best by placing them in a sink and running cold water into the pot for 10 or 15 seconds; the plants should be watered thoroughly from time to time to allow minerals deposited in the bark medium to be rinsed out. Morning is the best time to water any orchids.

Once a week to 10 days while blooming will usually be sufficient for a large plant; if two flower stems are present, more waterings may be required. When not blooming, once per two weeks is usually enough. When watering, remove the plant in its plastic pot from the decorative pot/basket.

Cattleyas greatly appreciate frequent applications of very mild dilutions of fertilizer. Many commercial brands work well, such as Miracle Grow, Peters, Dyna Grow, and so on; in most cases, the label will provide information on how much fertilizer to add to a gallon of water to make a solution – but it is best to make a far, far weaker one. For example, if the label calls for 1 tablespoon of fertilizer granules per gallon of water, to be applied once per month, try instead about one half teaspoon of granules per gallon, applied every other watering. Premixed fertilizer can be kept for some time under a sink, or in a cabinet out of reach of children (and away from light, which will allow algae to grow in the water in unsightly fashion).

Cattleyas have a craving for light, but their needs can be met easily. An hour to two hours of full sun in the early morning, OR sun diminished by sheer curtains for a longer period, are some variations either of which would provide enough light to allow the plants to grow and bloom. The standard test for Cattleya light levels is: jade green leaves not enough light. Yellowish green leaves, often with purplish blushing around the edges plenty of light. Remember, the equation goes: Light + fertilizer = flowers.

Cattleyas are one of the orchids that mostly take a rest after blooming (some few do so before blooming). When there are no green root tips, no new growth coming up from the base of the plant, and no flower buds developing, your plant is most likely resting and requires that you water it much less no more than 2 times per month!

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